My recipeThe potatoes should be hot when you add the cold butter — that temperature contrast is what creates the emulsion.
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Cook potatoes. Place potato pieces in a pot of cold salted water. Bring to a boil and cook 15–18 minutes until completely tender. Do not overcook.
Drain and dry. Drain very well. Return to the hot pot and let sit 1 minute to evaporate remaining moisture.
Rice the potatoes. Pass potatoes through a ricer directly into a clean bowl. Do not use a food mill or blender — the ricer is essential for texture.
Fold in butter. Working quickly while potatoes are still hot, fold in cold butter cubes one handful at a time. The cold butter emulsifies into the hot potato creating a silky texture.
Add cream and milk. Gently fold in warm heavy cream and warm whole milk in two additions until just combined.
Season and serve. Season with sea salt and white pepper. Taste and adjust. Transfer to a warm pot or squeeze bottle. Serve immediately.
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