Jason's Cooking Club
Tokyo-Style Clear Shoyu Ramen
“Never let it boil. A hard boil turns the broth cloudy. A lazy simmer for four hours is the whole difference.”
from Chef Shun
Ingredients
produce
- onion, halved1
- garlic cloves4
- ginger30 g
- scallions2
- scallions, sliced
pantry
- chicken backs or wings (broth)1 kg
- pork bones or pork shoulder (broth)500 g
- water (broth)4 litres
- kombu (broth)10 g
- katsuobushi (broth)20 g
- salt, only if needed
- soy sauce (tare)200 ml
- sake (tare)100 ml
- mirin (tare)100 ml
- sugar (tare)20 g
- kombu (tare)5 g
- katsuobushi (tare)10 g
- reserved chashu braising liquid (tare)45 ml
- soy sauce (chashu)150 ml
- sake (chashu)100 ml
- mirin (chashu)100 ml
- sugar (chashu)30 ml
- water, to cover (chashu)
- fresh ramen noodles4 portions
- cooked bamboo shoots or menma
- blanched greens
- nori
Method
01
Blanch the chicken and pork 5 minutes, then rinse every piece clean under running water. Scrub the pot too.
“This is the step everybody skips, and it's why their broth comes out grey. You're washing off the scum before it has anywhere to go.” — jason
⧗ 5 min
02
Cover with fresh water and bring it up to a very gentle simmer. Add the onion, garlic, ginger, and scallions. Cook 3 to 4 hours.
“Never let it boil. A hard boil emulsifies the fat into the liquid and you get a cloudy tonkotsu. A lazy simmer keeps it clear. That's chintan, and that's the whole game here.” — jason
03
Add the kombu for the final 30 minutes only.
⧗ 30 min
04
Pull the kombu out. Kill the heat, add the katsuobushi, and let it sit 5 minutes. Strain carefully. Don't press the solids.
⧗ 5 min
05
Roll the pork belly into a tight log and tie it with twine. Sear it on all sides until it's brown.
“It's braised, not roasted. I had this wrong for years.” — jason
06
Add the soy sauce, sake, mirin, sugar, and enough water to cover. Cover the pot and braise gently 2 to 3 hours, until a knife goes through it with no resistance.
07
Chill the pork completely before you slice it. Warm chashu shreds. Cold chashu cuts clean. Reserve some of the braising liquid for the tare.
08
Warm the soy sauce, sake, mirin, sugar, and the reserved chashu liquid together until the sugar dissolves. Don't boil it.
09
Off the heat, add the kombu and katsuobushi and steep 10 minutes. Strain.
“This is the part every shop guards. Same broth, different tare, and you're eating shoyu or shio or miso. The tare decides what the bowl is.” — jason
⧗ 10 min
10
Spoon 2 to 3 tablespoons of tare into the bottom of each bowl. Nothing else yet.
11
Cook the noodles separately and drain them hard. Into the bowl, then pour about 350 ml of hot broth over the top.
“Never cook noodles in your broth. The starch clouds it and you just spent four hours keeping it clear.” — jason
12
Top with the chashu, greens, bamboo shoots, nori, and scallions. Serve it immediately. Ramen doesn't wait.
you'll needLarge stockpot, 8L or biggerFine-mesh strainer or chinoisButcher's twineHeavy pot with a lidSmall saucepanSpider or noodle basket
notes — what you'd change next time